Invincible…The Old Ghost Road ~ Day 5, Jan 27
Specimen Hut to The Rough & Tumble Lodge ~ 12mi/19 km; Ascent 1,140ft/348m; Descent 1,483ft/452m
Stepping out of our Sleep-out the next morning, we were greeted by a Weta above our door and blue skies with “empty” clouds over head, giving us a clear view of the mountains surrounding us. We weren’t yet in the Southern Alps but their imposing stature was still awe-inspiring. Looking across the broad expanse of the river bed the Mohikinui claims throughout the seasons, we could tell, at times, it was even more mighty than the ribbon of blue lacing its way through the exposed rock garden.
View from the deck of Specimen Point Hut
Our ride through this spectacular back country was about to end - and we weren’t ready to leave. Once again, we lingered while others departed. In our last few moments, the mountains seemed to return our appreciation with the most incredible sight, first one, and then a second, full rainbow arching over the river gorge. A reminder that promises, at least in nature, still hold true.
Double Rainbow over the Mohikinui River Gorge
After crossing the bridge over Specimen Creek, the track wove several meters above the river winding its way along the rocky walls of the gorge following the last piece of long-forgotten gold miner’s road. No longer an end in itself, restored for a second life as a celebrated gateway to the wonders of New Zealand back country.
Over the entire length of the trail the crew constructed 16 bridges. These last few suspension bridges close the gaps over stream beds cascading off steep hillsides and across slips that seem to be a signature piece of this foreboding landscape.
After crossing the Suicide Slip bridges, we came upon the remnants of the first and last bridge to ever span the Mohikinui River. Built in 1880s to provide a land route to Karamea in the North and access to mines along the way, it crossed the river to follow the Rough and Tumble Creek. In 1929, the same earthquake that erased the top section of the Lyell dray road, collapsed the center pier. While the bridge held on for a few more weeks before succumbing to a watery grave, the devastation proved too daunting to rebuild and nature reclaimed its own.
Reaching this point on the river and knowing how close it came to being forever altered by a hydro company makes traveling along this wild river all the more spectacular.
We stopped for lunch at Johnny Cake Creek, putting off the inevitable descent to the river’s edge, only to find the trail wasn’t going to let us go easy. As we pushed up the final “steep” climb, our walking pace slowed to a stop, simply to marvel at another ancient giant towering above us, a virtual garden bed for almost every other type of plant surrounding it. How these trees sustain all that life, along with their own, defies human logic - the wonder of nature will never cease.
As our wheels rotated ever faster through a seemingly endless tunnel of green, suddenly and most abruptly - we could deny the end no longer - forced to a halt in front of a most formidable gate. Nivaun quickly realized after hoisting my bike through the maze that he could just squeeze his around the boulder lodged atop the remnants of rail line.
A bit melancholy over returning to the “other side”, we rolled on, across Welcome Creek bridge, along the river’s edge, to follow the gravel road up to where the trail splits off winding its way through the bush. And just like that we emerged to find ourselves under the other wooden archway, marking the end to our first, multi-day, true back country adventure by bike. Standing under the arch again after just five days, I wanted nothing more than to turn around and ride it again.
Forever in our hearts “The Old Ghost”!
After our celebratory photos, we joyously followed the sign to the Rough & Tumble Lodge for the famed “beer and pizza”, as described on the website. Even more so, I hoped to shake the hand of the man with such vision, undeterred through years of challenge, to make this experience possible. It was quite remarkable to walk through the door, knowing this was actually where it all began. However, we learned Marion was no longer living at the lodge and would be returning for a visit some time in April. After retrieving our gear, our hunger satiated, we sat on the screen porch listening to the river roll on by a few meters away, and realized, our adventure would just not be complete without spending at least a night, or maybe two, at the lodge.
Amazingly, with no forethought or planning, our time on The Old Ghost Road came together perfectly. Just a week ago, our plans had fast-tracked once we learned “Buller Adventures” would shuttle our gear from Lyell, minutes later we had secured tent sites at each of the huts, in just two days we were on the trail, the weather cleared through the Alpine un-obstructing our views, the rain in the valley held back the touted scourge of the sandflies, and by the time we reached the end, the lodge had just emptied, and a room was available. The name outside our door, “Invincible”, couldn’t have been more fitting - a testament that dreams are worth holding on to, no matter what may come, in the end we are all better for the experience, and for the lucky few, a difference is made for generations to come.
Cheers to Marion, his partners & the endless Invincible crew - Past, Present and Future keeping this Old Ghost of a road alive and well!
